Posted by Max Minton
When purchasing roses you have an option of buying a potted rose or a bareroot rose. So which one is right for you? Here we will discuss bareroot roses and why this may be the best choice for your garden.
When you go shopping for a bareroot rose you will likely find it to be less impressive to look at. It typically comes bagged or boxed and when you look at it, it will appear pretty plain. You will likely see some roots and stems and some sort of moisture retaining material around the roots to keep them moist.
This appearance is nothing to be concerned about. The bareroot rose is a dormant plant so it is not likely to resemble the beautiful roses you may have been envisioning.
Buying a dormant rose has it's advantages. The roots typically have not been tightly clustered together so they are likely to be in better condition than the roots of a potted rose. This means they will likely be ready to go directly into the ground.
Since you are purchasing a dormant plant, you will also be able to put it into the ground earlier in the planting season without much concern. You should be able to plant a bareroot rose as soon as the soil is soft enough for you to work with. Depending upon your region of the country, that will usually mean early to mid spring.
The cost of bareroot roses is also a plus. Typically you can purchase bareroot roses much cheaper than potted ones. The savings could mean you have the option of buying more plants for the same amount of money, enabling you to create a thicker, fuller looking hedge or boundary plant.
So, the next time you are at your favorite garden supply store, or shopping online, don't shy away from the bareroot roses just because their appearance may leave something to be desired. There are benefits to these roses and with a little love and attention they will soon be growing strong and looking beautiful in your garden.
When not working in his garden, Max likes to spend his time studying mobility issues for the elderly. Areas such as electric motor scooters and chair lifts for stairs are of particular interest. Come visit and learn more...
Tags: bareroot roses, Gardening Articles, plant, potted roses, roses
Posted by Keith Markensen
by Keith Markensen
Dog days are here the days when the heat closes in, when dogs and gardeners are supposed to be especially likely to go mad.
And reasons aplenty! Conditions are as near perfect as at any time during the year for the spreading of fungus diseases. Black spot, mildew, rust, brown patch, dollar spot and the various and sundry wilts all propagate and spread like a prairie fire unless the gardener is alert to their presence and acts quickly to combat them. Fortunately this danger period is relatively short. Many fungicides are readily available, easy and economical to use, Captan is favored by many gardeners Certain sucking insects, prey on shrubs at this time, namely spider mites (red spiders) and lace wing bugs. Both of these can be controlled by spraying with malathion.
Annuals and Perennials
Every gardener knows that keeping old faded blooms removed will stimulate more bloom. With petunias, alyssum, verbenas and snapdragons a severe pinching back will result in a very rewarding, new crop of flowers for the late garden. Short day annuals like zinnias, tithonias and marigolds can be planted from seed now to give satisfactory returns as late summer flowers.
Start seeds of pansy and English daisy in protected areas now for transplanting later. Lemon yellow and orange calendulas are also both good in most parts of the South, especially if given a little winter protection. Have you ever tried beds of pansies in solid colors? For a new thrill with pansies try all white, yellow or blue in double rows as borders in large pansy beds. The massed effect is very stimulating. Try to get pansies planted in permanent locations by October, They can be depended on for much winter color,
Start seeds now of biennials and perennials for next years crop. Protect them from hot dry winds and direct sunshine. Delphinium seeds germinate better at about 60 degrees.
Three old dependable perennials, iris, daylily and peony, need attention now. Do not be over-anxious to divide mature clumps unless there is a definite slow down in quantity and quality of blooming like the night blooming cereus. August is the accepted time for blooming cereus and dividing mature clumps. In dividing, remove all old foliage that will wither away, and plant only the healthiest divisions. Irises should be planted with so little soil over them that when the soil settles the rhizomes will he slightly exposed. Be on the alert for evidence of rot.
Daylily tubers should be well set with the growing point covered. With peonies the growing points should be covered with about an inch of soil. One teacup of Superphosphate dug around each mature clump of peonies will stimulate bud formation for another year. This month give the chrysanthemums the final pinch if they are being grown for pompons, but continue pinching if they are standards. Allow buds to set by early September and feeding with liquid fertilizer until color shows in the bud.
About the Author:
Keith Markensen frequently contributes to http://www.plant-care.com. Ready to roll back the confusion
night blooming cereus.
Tags: Garden, Gardening, Gardening Articles, plant, plant care
Posted by Keith Markensen
by Keith Markensen
Planting Process
In preparing the soil for the flats to grow carnations, use two parts fresh garden soil to each one part of coarse sand and one part humus or compost. Carnations are one of the few plants which should not be potted firmly. The soil should be shaken down, but not pressed. A good method of scattering the small seeds is to use a salt shaker; then after the seeds are in place, a kitchen sifter may be used to shake just enough soil to hide the seeds. This soil should be pressed lightly. Then the pots or flats may be placed in a container of warm water for several minutes, just enough to soak the soil well, but not to run over the edge of the flat.
Plastic bags make good coverings for the flats. This provides warmth as well as proper humidity for the seedlings. If the bags do not contain holes for ventilation, punch several openings before covering the flats.
Later watering may be done through a piece of burlap to prevent washing the tiny seedlings from the soil. Plants tray be thinned by using a pair of tweezers so that other plants will not be damaged when removing unwanted growths. The flats should be reversed every day to prevent the seedlings from leaning toward the light. When four or more leaves develop, transplant the seedlings two inches apart into larger flats or small pots.
Although carnation plants, especially the new improved strains, may be lifted in the fall, cut back, and potted up for indoor winter flowering, the small greenhouse gardener will find they are impractical for indoor cultivation. For the average gardener, outdoor planting is preferable.
Permanent planting for carnations should be about six inches apart with rows at least 12 inches apart. I also do this in caladium planting. I consider planting caladium as an easy but needs so much care and preparation. This is also like permanent planting for carnations, it should be done as early as spring weather permits. It is important that the plants not be set too deeply, or stem rot may result. Soil in which carnations are planted should be moderately rich and loose, perhaps two feet deep, giving the plants ample feeding room. A copious supply of well-rotted manure or other fertilizers should be worked into the soil before the transplanting is done. The soil should be moist at the time of transplanting, but not wet. The newly set plants should be kept uniformly moist, but never over-saturated.
Beginning about eight weeks after transplanting the small plants to their permanent location, monthly applications of a commercially prepared fertilizer should be used, preferably the type which is dissolved in water and poured around the base of the plant.
Soon after transplanting the carnations permanently, pinch the plants back to about three inches in height. This pinching will develop sturdy bush-like plants. Occasionally it becomes necessary to stake a plant to prevent its spreading flowers over the ground.
Bedding carnations will bloom from seeds in six to eight months. However, growers often prefer to treat them as perennials, expecting top flower development only from the two year old plants.
As may be expected, there are certain enemies to the cultivation of carnations. However, if the seedlings are carefully protected, the plants are sturdy enough to resist most plant problems.
Carnations deserve a chance to prove their worth in the home garden. The rewards are certainly worth the minimum of care and attention required. Although it might not be feasible to plan a do-it-yourself corsage for junior's Big Moment, at least Mom can expect a plentiful supply of fragrant flowers for the house throughout the summer.
About the Author:
Can't always get what you want, you can find what you need on
caladium planting. Drop by today at http://wwwwww.plant-care.com/planting-caladium-blubs.html.
Tags: carnations, Garden, Gardening, Gardening Articles, plant
Posted by Kor Rassad
by Kor Rassad
The causes for requiring to transplant roses are numerous. It could be because you choose to allow it more sunshine or it could be that you are simply altering things about a bit in your garden. But, whatever the reason, there are several matters that you will want to know before you begin pulling your plant out of the land.
First things first; organize the ground where you are preparing to set your roses. The last thing you want to do is to let the root ball to be exposed to the hot sunshine or release any of its moisture. If your plant must travel by vehicle to get to its new location, make sure that you cover the roots with a moist piece of burlap.
A great tip to remember is to water your plant well the day before you plan to move it. Water is the secret of a victorious transplant. The chances of transplanting a dry, wilting plant successfully are low.
But, if the plant is full of water, the needs on the roots are minimized for a spell after the transplant. In all probability you are going to loose some of the roots from transplanting the plant. The roots of a rose plant develop really deep into the ground past the point of a reasonable sum of soil that can be taken. But, with enough water absorbed by the rest of the plant, your roses have a greater chance of survival.
When digging the plant out, get as much of the root ball as you can manage. It is not necessary to trim healthy plant growth from the top structure in order for the plant to live. The development of the plant is important in the production of sugars. It only harms the plant to trim its growth away. After the transplant if the plant starts to droop at its tips its a sign that it is having trouble supporting its top structure. If this occurs step-up the amount that you water it and you can trim any tips that do not recover. Its a good idea to give approximately a half to a full cup of bone meal to the hole where the plant will go. You will also want to set the plant somewhat higher then it was before because the plant will settle within the hole. The bud union can be about one or two inches above ground level. Once the plant is watered and has settled, you can press slightly on the plant to eliminate air pockets.
Most rose enthusiasts would agree not transplant roses in the growing season for several reasons. It is easier to transplant the roses while they are dormant because there is less of a risk of them going into shock since they are not growing. Plus, right after the yearly cropping the plant will be smaller and easier to move around. But, with the correct preparation and a lot of water, anyone can follow the steps listed here and anyone can have pretty, flourishing roses after a transplant during any season.
Tags: flowers, Gardening Articles, plant, Plants, rose, roses, transplanting roses
Posted by Kor Rassad
by Kor Rassad
The grounds for needing to transplant roses are numerous. It could be because you choose to allow it greater sunlight or it could be that you are just modifying things around a bit in your garden. But, whatever the cause, there are several matters that you will need to recognise before you start plucking your plant out of the ground.
First things first; organize the ground where you are preparing to set your roses. The last thing you want to do is to let the root ball to be exposed to the hot sunshine or release any of its moisture. If your plant must travel by vehicle to get to its new location, make sure that you cover the roots with a moist piece of burlap.
A great tip to remember is to water your plant well the day before you plan to move it. Water is the secret of a productive transplant. The chances of transplanting a dry, drooping plant successfully are little.
But, if the plant is full of water, the demands on the roots are decreased for a while after the transplant. In all probability you are going to loose some of the roots from transplanting the plant. The roots of a rose plant grow very deep into the soil past the point of a reasonable amount of soil that can be taken. But, with sufficient water drawn by the rest of the plant, your roses have a greater chance of survival.
When digging the plant out, get as much of the root ball as you can manage. It is not necessary to trim healthy plant growth from the top structure in order for the plant to live. The development of the plant is important in the production of sugars. It only harms the plant to trim its growth away. After the transplant if the plant starts to droop at its tips its a sign that it is having trouble supporting its top structure. If this occurs step-up the amount that you water it and you can trim any tips that do not recover. Its a good idea to give approximately a half to a full cup of bone meal to the hole where the plant will go. You will also want to set the plant somewhat higher then it was before because the plant will settle within the hole. The bud union can be about one or two inches above ground level. Once the plant is watered and has settled, you can press slightly on the plant to eliminate air pockets.
Most rose enthusiasts would concur not transplant roses in the growing season for several reasons. It is smoother to transplant the roses while they are dormant because there is less of a risk of them going into shock since they are not growing. Plus, right after the annual clipping the plant will be smaller and lighter to move around. But, with decent planning and a lot of water, anyone can follow the steps listed here and anyone can have glorious, flourishing roses after a transplant during any season.
Tags: flowers, Gardening Articles, plant, Plants, rose, roses, transplanting roses
Posted by Kor Rassad
by Kor Rassad
The reasons for requiring to transplant roses are numerous. It could be because you favor to allow it greater sunlight or it could be that you are simply switching things around a bit in your garden. But, whatever the cause, there are various matters that you will need to recognise before you begin plucking your plant out of the ground.
First things first; ready the ground where you are projecting to site your roses. The last thing you need to do is to allow for the root ball to be exposed to the hot sunlight or release any of its moisture. If your plant has to travel by vehicle to get to its new location, make sure that you cover the roots with a moist piece of burlap.
A great tip to remember is to water your plant well the day before you plan to move it. Water is the secret of a victorious transplant. The chances of transplanting a dry, wilting plant successfully are low.
But, if the plant is full of water, the demands on the roots are decreased for a while after the transplant. In all probability you are going to loose some of the roots from transplanting the plant. The roots of a rose plant grow very deep into the soil past the point of a reasonable amount of soil that can be taken. But, with sufficient water drawn by the rest of the plant, your roses have a greater chance of survival.
When digging the plant out, take as much of the root ball as you can manage. It is not necessary to crop healthy plant growth from the top structure in order for the plant to survive. The growth of the plant is important in the production of sugars. It only damages the plant to cut its growth away. After the transplant if the plant starts to wilt at its tips its a sign that it is having trouble supporting its top structure. If this happens step-up the amount that you water it and you can prune any tips that do not recover. Its a great idea to give approximately a half to a full cup of bone meal to the hole where the plant will go. You will also want to set the plant slightly higher then it was before because the plant will settle inside the hole. The bud union can be about one or two inches above ground level. Once the plant is watered and has settled, you can press slightly on the plant to eliminate air pockets.
Most rose enthusiasts would concur not transplant roses in the growing season for several reasons. It is smoother to transplant the roses while they are dormant because there is less of a risk of them going into shock since they are not growing. Plus, right after the annual clipping the plant will be smaller and lighter to move around. But, with decent planning and a lot of water, anyone can follow the steps listed here and anyone can have glorious, flourishing roses after a transplant during any season.
Tags: flowers, Gardening Articles, plant, Plants, rose, roses, transplanting roses
Posted by Thomas Fryd
by Thomas Fryd
Do you remember the slogan of a popular soft drink... "The pause that refreshes." Well, here it is - May - the season between the seasons. Weve got the first early rush of planting work done, now trying to catch our breath, and get started on the next round. Maybe some of you feel that you are entitled to a little pause between rounds.
I planned for my rest several years ago. Our cultivated strips of ground are about 20 feet wide and 100 feet long, with grass paths between. When we first moved here, it looked awfully bleak around the end of the rows, and I visualized how hot it would be when one reached the north end of the garden.
My solution was to plant a pin oak. It is now large enough to furnish shade. With a comfortable yard chair it is ideal to sit in the tree's shade and muse over the gardening problems. Maybe I should have planted two such trees far enough apart to swing a hammock between them.
They often deride someone for wishing for this or that. Wishing for the moon," they say. Just like, when i wish for my own beautiful japanese garden design. Probably all of us at some time in our youth wished for the moon, or maybe it was just a star. Every true plant lover, I suspect, is still just a child at heart. Whenever you read of this or that, don't you say to yourself, "My, Id like to have that growing in my garden, landscape, greenhouse or wherever."
In all honesty, I must confess I get an almost uncontrollable urge to try everything I read or hear about. Oh, some of you will say, I specialize in roses, iris, daylilies," or whatever your favorite might be. But did you ever know a "specialist" who didnt want more varieties? In our back yard youll find no evidence of specialization. Someone once asked me what was my favorite flower. My reply was The one I happen to be looking at at the time.
About the Author:
We've created an excellent resource for you on
japanese garden design. Drop by today at http://www.plant-care.com/japanese-garden-design-zen-and-the-art-of-balance.html.
Tags: Garden, Gardening Articles, landscape, plant
Posted by Indoor Garden Online Admin
If you want to know how to make a rock garden that is much more organic and want each to grow directly in the container the procedure is slightly different.
You will have to begin by lining the container, ensuring that there are holes for drainage, so that your plant roots do not stand in any water. Plants generally need at least 6 inches of growing room. Then place a layer of broken crockery, terracotta or medium gravel and cover the entire bottom of the container. This prevents the plants from standing in water as any excess will easily soak through to the bottom.
Using a mixture of one part peat moss, one part garden loam, and one part clean coarse builder's sand, as well as a slow release fertilizer, fill up the container to the top. With this type of mixture your can plant anything from Cacti to Alpine Plants, so when choosing plants, select a wide variety of colours and shapes. When selecting the rocks, select sizes and shapes that compliment your plant selection and place them throughout the container. Take note of the maximum size of each of your plants when placing your rocks, you will want to give them room to grow and flourish.
When you transfer each of your plants from there individual smaller pots, it is recommended that your lightly brush away some of the soil from the root ball. This will assist in the growth rate and the plant will better set in the new environment. When placing each plant carefully put them at the same growing level as was in there pots, and then fill in any gaps between the rocks and plants with your planting mixture.
Once you have set-up your container continue to regularly maintain it with watering and light fertilizing during the growing season, but remember that an Indoor Rock Garden will require less overall watering than one located outdoors.
Tags: container, garden loam, How To Make An Alpine Rock Garden, How To Make An Indoor Rock Garden, peat moss, plant, Rock Garden, slow release fertilizer
Posted by Indoor Garden Online Admin
The first step towards Indoor Bonsai Care is to make sure you place the Bonsai Plant in the appropriate location. Your Indoor Bonsai must be placed in a well lit area because if it does not get enough sunlight, it will die. The Indoor Bonsai should be kept warm in the daytime, as well as humid, to simulate the region in which it normally grows. Spray the leaves with water often, and keep the spray bottle next to your Indoor Bonsai. The soil itself should always be damp to the touch but never soaked. At night your Indoor Bonsai can be allowed to cool off but spray again first thing in the morning before the sunlight hits it, as would occur in nature with morning dew. If you notice any moss growing near the base of your Indoor Bonsai make sure it is not in direct contact with the truck of the Bonsai Plant by lightly scraping it away.
Indoor Bonsai Care also includes both pruning and wiring to maintain the shape and size of your Indoor Bonsai. When pruning it is important to do so during the appropriate season, each Bonsai Plant will have a different requirement. To start you must locate the front of your Bonsai Plant as the trunck line should be exposed from all branches and foliage at this angle. Begin by pruning away branches as well as foliage at or around the base of the Bonsai Plant about 1/3 of the way up. If your Indoor Bonsai has visible trunks and you see growth in those locations, you should prune those as they will cause the trunk or primary branches to grow in an undesired direction. Next, prune away all the foliage close to the trunk on any of the primary branches and then prune all foliage that is pointing straight up or down except the foliage that is pointing straight up at the top of the tree. Branches on a Bonsai Plant should never be located directly across from one another, but alternate from left to right to back or vise versa, prune away any that do not visually conform to this as well. If your Bonsai Plant has had a lot of upwards growth you may find it necessary to create new primary branches from foliage growth. To do this you will need to use the wiring technique. To do this start by gently coiling the wire around the base of the trunk below the branch and continue around the branch in the same direction as the growth pattern of the new branch. Continue wiring your Bonsai Plant as close to the end of the branch as you can and avoid contact with any foliage growth. Then carefully bend the branch into the desired final position, which you will need to leave in place for a full growing season. Do not leave the wiring in place longer than a growing season or you might see wiring pot marks as the Indoor Bonsai continues to grow around the wire. After wiring it is recommended that you do not expose your Indoor Bonsai to direct sun light for at least a month as it causes stress to the Bonsai Plant. To remove the wire you can either carefully unwind it for reuse or clip the wire using a Bonsai cutter.
Another step in Indoor Bonsai Care is that you will have to re-pot it every two years which also assists in maintaining the small size, and this should be done at the beginning of spring. When you re-pot, you must also prune the roots at the same time. To do this, unseat the Bonsai carefully and lightly brush away some of the soil from the rootball to expose only the ends of the roots, but do not brush away all of it. Remove approximately 1/3 to 2/3 of the root tips and try to create an almost perfect sphere shape. You can then re-pot the Bonsai Plant using a soil mixture containing one part loam, two parts sphagnum peat moss, two parts granite grit in the same or similar sized and shaped Bonsai Pot.
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Indoor Bonsai for Beginners: Selection Care Training
List Price: $14.95
Sale Price: $8.71
Used From: $8.45
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Creating beautiful, healthy bonsai is a wonderful skill that anyone can learn, with a little time, patience, and this all-inclusive manual. With color photos and drawings to illustrate the points, it introduces all the cultivation techniques; offers expert advice on location, soil types, watering, and pest control; and provides intricate instruction on training the bonsai--including pruning, wiring and stretching it...
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Pocket Bonsai: Care Shaping Repotting Species
List Price: $14.95
Sale Price: $0.50
Used From: $0.99
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From its origins as a Chinese art form some 2000 years ago through today, the bonsai tree remains an object of fascination that embraces both nature and art. Now, gardeners can participate in the wonderful tradition of bonsai cultivation with the help of this definitive, pocket-size yet extremely thorough guide, written by an expert...
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Bonsai School: The Complete Course in Care, Training & Maintenance
List Price: $17.95
Sale Price: $10.38
Used From: $10.31
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It’s big and beautiful, and the only course you need to cultivate bonsais successfully. From the author of the acclaimed Bonsai for Beginners, this comprehensive, easy-to-follow instructional guide covers the basics and way beyond...
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Tags: Bonsai, bonsai care, bonsai plant, Indoor, Indoor Bonsai Care, lit area, plant
Posted by Indoor Garden Online Admin
The basics of Aeroponics growing is to place each plant or seedling in a pod suspended over a closed or semi-closed Aeroponic System and then spraying the roots of each plant with a nutrient rich solution. All Aeroponic Systems are designed to be kept free from pests and disease so that the plants grow healthier and quicker than plants grown in soil. The Aeroponic Systems condition advance plant development, health, growth, flowering and fruiting for any given plant species. Carbon dioxide in the air is necessary for healthy plant growth and as aeroponics is conducted both in the air and combined with micro-droplets of water, almost any plant can grow to maturity. For larger plants such as tomato plants, a trellis is incorporated into the design which still allows full growth.
A majority of Indoor Gardeners favor Aeroponic Systems over other methods of Hydroponic Gardening because the increased aeration of nutrients in a solution delivers more oxygen to plant roots, stimulating faster growth and helping to prevent disease within the plant. The design of Aeroponic Systems also allow ease of working with the plants as well. This results from the separation of the plants from each other in the individual pods, and the fact that the plants are suspended in air and the roots are free, make the harvesting of individual plants quite simple and easy.
There are a number of outlets for Aeroponic Systems including the most popular commercially known the Aero Grow Aero Garden, however there are a number of manufacturers that price there Aeroponic Systems for any budget, as seen below.
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Home Garden System by Hydrofarm
Sale Price: $58.99
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The newest generation hobby hydroponic system from Hydrofarm! The Homegarden has an extremely attractive new modular design that allows you to connect multiple individual units for a larger growing area...
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Botanicare Turbogarden Aeroponic System
Sale Price: $400.00
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Grow large in a small space with the TURBOGARDEN - The perpetual growth machine. The TURBOGARDEN has the same features as the MICROGARDEN but has a larger reservoir and holds more plants. Experience the same rapid growth rates, higher yields, increased nutritional value, heightened fragrances and flavors...
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Tags: aero grow aero garden, Aeroponic, aeroponic system, aeroponic systems, growth, plant
