Beneficial Pest Management

Almost all gardeners are eco-friendly simply because of their operating so close to nature. And also, concomitant to that, many landscapers goal for naturally efficient back garden insect control, and this can be generally attainable, however there always seem to become some that require containment with chemical substances.

Whichever is your preference, effective pest control is an essential section of garden management.

Safer Remedies

Healthy soil and healthful factories are fundamentally the ideal defence against illness and pests as nature gives plants with quite a few defence mechanisms which beneficial soil and plant care will help become optimised.

Moreover, deciding upon plants that are ideal suited for your hardiness zone - environment and growing problems then will match them much better - you will find generally complications whenever you begin to grow plants not optimally suited for that zone, for example, my developing roses from the tropics was continually fraught with fungal ailment. (I persisted even though - however it was more perform and vigilance).

Vegetation from outside your zone may be extra susceptible to ailment because they have no normal resistance.

While initially it may well mean additional function, it is possible to obtain a healthy garden without resorting to chemicals. Compost enriched and well-nourished soil, beneficial mulching and developing the correct facilities for the spot typically will reduce a large amount of common back garden issues.

An ounce of prevention saves pounds of work.

Vigilance is really a key to preventing insects, wildlife, or sickness from destroying your crops or garden facilities.

* Do not buy facilities which can be suspect - examine them carefully before purchasing.

* Exercise good hygiene (clean your methods, disinfect pots etc)

* Do not put diseased plant detritus into the compost - trash them.

* Be water-wise - use drip irrigation devices - you'll use much less drinking water and be extra effective.

* Weed regularly - eventually you receive on leading!

Allow it to be A Habit To Stroll About Your Back garden Regularly (which is relaxing anyway)

This allows you to catch issues inside early stages and you'll be able to act to remedy them just before they get a real keep on. Examine for indicators of insects or disease, and don't water the garden too late inside day, as this encourages fungal ailment. An exception is if the plants are suffering due to heat tension in the course of a heatwave - have a go with to keep the foliage water-free.

Bear in mind, a pesticide that's regarded as 'safe' right now could effortlessly be off the marketplace tomorrow since it is later learned to own long-term environmental impacts or other unintended side effects.

pest control for Palo Alto

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Alternative ways to deal with gophers

Additional Gopher and Mole Deterrents Aside from traps, baits and electronic deterrents, there are some other products that may or might not support you with your underground pest difficulty. Here i will discuss a few of the most popular:

Car EXHAUST Tube ADAPTORS You take your garden hose and stick it into the gopher or mole's entrance, after that you affix the other end on the hose to a tiny adapter which then is attached to the exhaust pipe of your car. You allow your car idle for 20-30 minutes and your pests slowly fall into a deep rest from which they will in no way wake up.

It seems practical, butdoes this idea perform? Properly, it can job, but the fumes really have to help it become to when the varmint is. It's especially doable that parts in the tunnel are closed off to when the gopher is plus the fumes won't help it become there. Plus, the further you push the hose into the hole, the increased dirt begins to plug up the hose itself.

Considering the adapter is usually inexpensive, I would only recommend that you try it for critters which are living close to your driveway but not for the ones deep in your backyard. If you're gonna try this for the backyard gophers, you can undoubtedly supply the neighbors having a Bill Murray CaddyShack moment as you need to drive your automobile onto your back lawn and leave it idling there for half an hour for each mound.

An excellent alternative to this is the Crittergetter. The Crittergetter is not your standard garden hose fumigation apparatus; it is a appropriately sized tool that delivers a great volume of toxic exhaust to a burrow without having causing harm towards exhaust source. It speedily funnels the toxic exhaust from your car, truck, tractor or lawnmower into the burrow of a gopher, vole, mole, woodchuck, shrew or other burrowing pest via a unique hose. Locate out more concerning the Crittergetter.

Gas BOMBS Ignitable fuel bombs seem like a fireworks item. You clear out the entrance to the critter's tunnel, ignite the gas bomb, place it into the hole, cover it up so the smoke goes into the tunnel after which it just hope that it works. After some days, just dig up the spent cartridge and rake out the dirt into your yard.

Once more, you won't know for a while if you have succeeded in getting your varmint. If the tunnel is blocked off, the gas can't get because of. It can be type of fun to use and it's exciting to determine slightly smoke rising from your lawn though. They come in packs of five or six, as a result of that's how many chances are you'll eventually use for one tunnel.

Garden SPRAYS And GRANULES I'm keen on the thought of lawn sprays and spreadable granules. Utilising your garden hose, you sprayon a chemical which experts claim improvements the mole's main foods from a tasty snack into an unpleasant tasting grub. You can also find these products in granule form, which you use with a spreader. In the end the critter gets worn-out of possessing an annoyed stomach and one night goes on (off your property) to discover a much better supply of food.

Such systems job better on moles and voles than gophers as a result of gophers reside deeper while in the soil than moles and voles do. Gophers are also little thinking about eating the grubs which these types of chemicalsaffect. Considering you may have to apply it over once also it isn't genuine cheap, it might not be practical for huge properties, but for mole infestations inside a smaller place, this merchandise can be a impressive solution.

Frustrated with you gopher infestation? Check out our site about gopher control. You will find it helpful!

Tags: Gardening, Gardening Articles, landscape management, landscaping, pest control, pest management, rodent control

Aphid Alert!

There is nothing more vexing than discovering that aphids have begun to invade your garden greenhouse, munching away on your luscious vegetables. This is a common fall problem that has a variety of control options: prevention, minimal controls, insecticidal soaps, and biological controls.

Prevention - The first step in dealing with aphids in your garden greenhouse is to make sure you carefully monitor plants you choose to transplant into your greenhouse. Plants selected for your greenhouse should be healthy and vigorous. In addition, you should spray them down with your garden hose to knock off any hitchhikers. If the plant has an obvious insect infestation, do not bring it into your greenhouse without more drastic measures. You can spray it with an insect control spray, or enclose it with a plastic bag in which you place an insecticide strip for two or three days. After taking your plants out of the treatment bag, hose them down before transplanting them to your greenhouse.

Sometimes aphids can become established no matter how careful you are in your preparations and preventative tactics. In this case, there are several alternative paths you can take. If you are a purist and do not want to use insecticides in our greenhouse environment, you have a couple options. Hosing down infected plants with a powerful stream from your garden hose can be effective for a while. If you plan on closing down your greenhouse soon, this may be the best option. Some hobby greenhouse gardeners choose to shut their greenhouse down for anywhere from 2-4 months in the winter allowing Mother Nature to take over and freeze out insect pests. If you want a little more aggressive natural control, diatomaceous earth is effective. You can sprinkle this powder on and under leaves of effected plants. If you catch the problem early and have isolated insects in one part of your greenhouse, this can be an effective control.

More aggressive tactics-Using a fast acting insecticide that is safe for use on vegetable gardens is another way to control your aphid problem. There are several varieties out there that are "garden safe." Check your local garden center or hardware store for alternatives. Most of these involve an organic insecticidal soap that takes care of aphids, or at least significantly reduces their number. You can also make your own version of this by mixing a tablespoon of liquid dish detergent with water in a quart sprayer. The soap coats the aphids and reduces their numbers. You have to spray every day for best results, paying particular attention to the underside of leaves of infected plants.

Biological controls - another alternative to aphid control are biological controls, such as lacewings, ladybugs and midges. Several companies provide these predators for your greenhouses. If using this approach, be sure to limit your use of insecticidal spray, as it will kill off your predator population, as well as your pests.

Using a combination of the above controls, you can keep your greenhouse healthy and productive throughout the fall and winter greenhouse growing seasons.

Betsy Woodworth writes about garden advice and also about dome set up.

Tags: aphids, bugs, dome, garden pests, Gardening, Gardening Articles, Greenhouse, greenhouse pests, Greenhouses, hobbies, Home Family Gardening, insect control, insects, pest control

Control Of Plant Bugs Comes From Knowledge

Plant bug insects can be divided roughly into two groups, namely : (a) those that bite and chew their food and (b) those that possess a sucking tube through which they extract their food by means of piercing the leaves of plants. Too bad they are not equipped with a loud speaking tube too, then we'd know when the pesky critters were at work."

To combat leaf-chewing insects, stomach poison controls must be applied to the attacked plants. Of these the most common are Sevin. Today on the shelves of many garden supply stores you will see innumerable brands displayed, all concocted by chemical companies according to their experience and tests. All these branded controls are made available through laborious modern scientific research. Some stomach controls are nonpoisonous to humans and animals. That is one reason we like going organic with a natural product like neem oil as an insecticide.

To combat sucking insects contact poisons and nonpoisonous controls must be applied to the attacked plants. Of these the most common are malathion, horticultural oil, and insecticidal soaps. Today on the shelves of garden supply and retail nurseries you will see innumerable brands displayed, all concocted by well known chemical companies in their modern research laboratories. Most are available either in powder or liquid forms.

Some insecticides act as both stomach and contact poisons.

Fungus diseases as commonly known, are rusts, mildews, blights, rots, cankers and leaf spots. They are caused by parasites that live on food manufactured by plants. These parasites increase rapidly during damp humid weather and spread by spores usually through the action of wind and rain and sometimes by mechanical assistance. To combat fungi, controls either liquid or dust must be applied periodically to the attacked plants. Of these the most common are bordeaux mixture, sulphur, copper powders and solutions, lime-sulphur and concentrated ammonia. Today on the shelves of seed stores you will see innumerable brands on display. If in doubt at all, you name your problem and let your favorite nursery prescribe the remedy.

Bacteria are the some of the smallest form of life the gardener will come in contact with. They are spread by insects and cause scab, blight and wilt. Control the insect carriers of bacterial diseases by spraying often.

Virus diseases are spread by sucking insects such as aphids. Aphids are small, soft bodied, and numerous in species and color. Control the insect carriers of virus diseases by spraying with any of the well known contact sprays.

Physiological diseases from excessive drought or too much rainfall; from poor ventilation or even mechanical injury, must be controlled by some counteracting measure of cultivation or method of production like ginger plant care. Damping-off for instance can be checked by soil sterilization, proper ventilation and by charcoal and mercurial treatments. Do this tips in order to care for your ginger plant and others plants.

Early in the morning or in the evening is the best time to apply either liquid sprays or dust controls. Stomach poison controls should be applied after a rainfall; disease controls before, if possible. Do not apply insecticides or fungicides if the temperature is 78 degrees or more, else foliage burning may result.

Start insect and fungi control in the autumn of the year by tidying up your garden. Burn all rubbish ; cut out dead twigs and branches and burn them too; and in early spring commence spraying; don't wait until infestation is beyond control.

More knowledge, more power, more success when you better understand the techniques on ginger plant care. Drop by today at http://www.plant-care.com/alpinia-red-ginger-flower-i809.html.

Tags: Garden, Gardening Articles, pest, pest control, plant bugs, plant care

Controling Pests Regularly

The tender warm weather vegetables like peppers, eggplant and tomatoes and bedding plants like tuberous begonias and geraniums can be set out now in areas south of the latitude of Chicago and Cleveland. In areas, farther north wait a week or two. Though these plants could possibly tolerate the cooler temperatures of earlier planting, they would be exposed to severe attack by aphids. By June 1 insect predators will be active and will have substantially reduced the aphid population. Aphids are particularly menacing to tomatoes, to which they transmit a virus disease.

The chelated iron compounds are a blessing to Midwestern gardeners. In our section the alkaline soil locks up any available iron so readily that it is hard to maintain good green color in leaves without adding supplements of this element. If the foliage of your roses, apple and oak trees and lupines is pale, add some chelated iron to the soil.

In the Midwest, lupines present a special problem; they need both calcium and iron, which are antagonistic. If the soil is low in calcium, gypsum can be used to supply this element since it is neutral in reaction and does not lock up the iron as lime does.

Delayed nitrogen burn, a condition caused by consistent use of organic fertilizers rather than chemical plant foods on the lawn may show up about mid June. This condition is caused by the large amount of nitrogen released by the bacteria which become active in hot weather. If the lawn turns yellow suddenly during the latter half of June, flush out the excess free nitrogen from the soil. Lawns fed entirely with chemical fertilizers need a second application on June and another on July 1, if good summer growth is desired. .

Any newly-planted roses that have not yet started into growth should be dug up and thrown away. Replace them with pot grown plants. If your garden has been hit before by black spot, it should be sprayed regularly from mid-June on.

After the tulips fade, you will have to decide whether or not you want to dig them up. If the bulbs are planted deep enough to allow cultivation and seeding or planting over them, and if the soil temperature wont go too high, the bulbs are better left in; A ground cover of low, shallow-rooted annuals (such as petunias, which are ideal) will shade the ground and keep the tulip bulbs cool.

Though winter is months away, the vegetables that you will eat then must be planted during June. These include carrots and beets for storage, cabbage and broccoli seeded directly in the garden for late fall crops for late fall and early winter salads. The escarolle need not be seeded until some time next month.

It is a strong temptation to neglect regular control of pests after their first heavy invasion in late spring. But regular spraying from now on is necessary to control serious pests which attack during the summer heat. One easy control measure is to apply a good thorough application of Malathion to the landscape garden, this treatment can do wonders to keep pests under control.

When iris and peonies fade, resist the impulse to cut them back. Peonies need their foliage until early September. The iris can be cut back in mid-July if their foliage is unsightly, but any new leaves which are produced should not be touched.

When the lilacs finish blooming, be sure to cut off the faded heads just below the lowest florets. Dont cut into the old wood on which this years blooms were produced, for next years dormant buds have already formed by this time.

Lilacs, used in spring lilac potpourri recipes, that have grown out of bounds can be renewed now. The best method is to remove one-third of the old, heavy branches, lopping them off within 6 inches of the soil. Next year cut out one-third of the remaining old wood, and the following year cut out the balance. If this technique is followed, your old lilac plants can become potential sources of ingredients for a homemade lilac potpourri recipe.

Evergreens can be shaped now. With a sharp knife or pruning shear cut off half of the new growth on each twig. This will force the growth of two buds where only one would have formed.

We've created an outstanding resource for you on the topic of homemade lilac potpourri recipe. Visit us at http://www.plant-care.com/dried-potpourri-recipes-and-preserving-fresh-cut-flowers.html.

Tags: Garden, Gardening, Gardening Articles, pest, pest control

Chelated Iron – A Good Help For Gardeners

The tender warm weather vegetables like peppers, eggplant and tomatoes and bedding plants like tuberous begonias and geraniums can be set out now in areas south of the latitude of Chicago and Cleveland. In areas, farther north wait a week or two. Though these plants could possibly tolerate the cooler temperatures of earlier planting, they would be exposed to severe attack by aphids. By June 1 insect predators will be active and will have substantially reduced the aphid population. Aphids are particularly menacing to tomatoes, to which they transmit a virus disease.

The chelated iron compounds are a blessing to Midwestern gardeners. In our section the alkaline soil locks up any available iron so readily that it is hard to maintain good green color in leaves without adding supplements of this element. If the foliage of your roses, apple and oak trees and lupines is pale, add some chelated iron to the soil.

In the Midwest, lupines present a special problem; they need both calcium and iron, which are antagonistic. If the soil is low in calcium, gypsum can be used to supply this element since it is neutral in reaction and does not lock up the iron as lime does.

Delayed nitrogen burn, a condition caused by consistent use of organic fertilizers rather than chemical plant foods on the lawn may show up about mid June. This condition is caused by the large amount of nitrogen released by the bacteria which become active in hot weather. If the lawn turns yellow suddenly during the latter half of June, flush out the excess free nitrogen from the soil. Lawns fed entirely with chemical fertilizers need a second application on June and another on July 1, if good summer growth is desired. .

Any newly-planted roses that have not yet started into growth should be dug up and thrown away. Replace them with pot grown plants. If your garden has been hit before by black spot, it should be sprayed regularly from mid-June on.

After the tulips fade, you will have to decide whether or not you want to dig them up. If the bulbs are planted deep enough to allow cultivation and seeding or planting over them, and if the soil temperature wont go too high, the bulbs are better left in; A ground cover of low, shallow-rooted annuals (such as petunias, which are ideal) will shade the ground and keep the tulip bulbs cool.

Though winter is months away, the vegetables that you will eat then must be planted during June. These include carrots and beets for storage, cabbage and broccoli seeded directly in the garden for late fall crops for late fall and early winter salads. The escarolle need not be seeded until some time next month.

It is a strong temptation to neglect regular control of pests after their first heavy invasion in late spring. But regular spraying from now on is necessary to control serious pests which attack during the summer heat. One easy control measure is to apply a good thorough application of Malathion to the landscape garden, this treatment can do wonders to keep pests under control.

When iris and peonies fade, resist the impulse to cut them back. Peonies need their foliage until early September. The iris can be cut back in mid-July if their foliage is unsightly, but any new leaves which are produced should not be touched.

When the lilacs finish blooming, be sure to cut off the faded heads just below the lowest florets. Dont cut into the old wood on which this years blooms were produced, for next years dormant buds have already formed by this time.

Lilacs, used in spring lilac potpourri recipes, that have grown out of bounds can be renewed now. The best method is to remove one-third of the old, heavy branches, lopping them off within 6 inches of the soil. Next year cut out one-third of the remaining old wood, and the following year cut out the balance. If this technique is followed, your old lilac plants can become potential sources of ingredients for a homemade lilac potpourri recipe.

Evergreens can be shaped now. With a sharp knife or pruning shear cut off half of the new growth on each twig. This will force the growth of two buds where only one would have formed.

Join Keith Markensen at http://www.plant-care.com. We've created the perfect resource for you on the topic of homemade lilac potpourri recipe.

Tags: Garden, Gardening, Gardening Articles, pest, pest control

Controling Pests Regularly

The tender warm weather vegetables like peppers, eggplant and tomatoes and bedding plants like tuberous begonias and geraniums can be set out now in areas south of the latitude of Chicago and Cleveland. In areas, farther north wait a week or two. Though these plants could possibly tolerate the cooler temperatures of earlier planting, they would be exposed to severe attack by aphids. By June 1 insect predators will be active and will have substantially reduced the aphid population. Aphids are particularly menacing to tomatoes, to which they transmit a virus disease.

The chelated iron compounds are a blessing to Midwestern gardeners. In our section the alkaline soil locks up any available iron so readily that it is hard to maintain good green color in leaves without adding supplements of this element. If the foliage of your roses, apple and oak trees and lupines is pale, add some chelated iron to the soil.

In the Midwest, lupines present a special problem; they need both calcium and iron, which are antagonistic. If the soil is low in calcium, gypsum can be used to supply this element since it is neutral in reaction and does not lock up the iron as lime does.

Delayed nitrogen burn, a condition caused by consistent use of organic fertilizers rather than chemical plant foods on the lawn may show up about mid June. This condition is caused by the large amount of nitrogen released by the bacteria which become active in hot weather. If the lawn turns yellow suddenly during the latter half of June, flush out the excess free nitrogen from the soil. Lawns fed entirely with chemical fertilizers need a second application on June and another on July 1, if good summer growth is desired. .

Any newly-planted roses that have not yet started into growth should be dug up and thrown away. Replace them with pot grown plants. If your garden has been hit before by black spot, it should be sprayed regularly from mid-June on.

After the tulips fade, you will have to decide whether or not you want to dig them up. If the bulbs are planted deep enough to allow cultivation and seeding or planting over them, and if the soil temperature wont go too high, the bulbs are better left in; A ground cover of low, shallow-rooted annuals (such as petunias, which are ideal) will shade the ground and keep the tulip bulbs cool.

Though winter is months away, the vegetables that you will eat then must be planted during June. These include carrots and beets for storage, cabbage and broccoli seeded directly in the garden for late fall crops for late fall and early winter salads. The escarolle need not be seeded until some time next month.

It is a strong temptation to neglect regular control of pests after their first heavy invasion in late spring. But regular spraying from now on is necessary to control serious pests which attack during the summer heat. One easy control measure is to apply a good thorough application of Malathion to the landscape garden, this treatment can do wonders to keep pests under control.

When iris and peonies fade, resist the impulse to cut them back. Peonies need their foliage until early September. The iris can be cut back in mid-July if their foliage is unsightly, but any new leaves which are produced should not be touched.

When the lilacs finish blooming, be sure to cut off the faded heads just below the lowest florets. Dont cut into the old wood on which this years blooms were produced, for next years dormant buds have already formed by this time.

Lilacs, used in spring lilac potpourri recipes, that have grown out of bounds can be renewed now. The best method is to remove one-third of the old, heavy branches, lopping them off within 6 inches of the soil. Next year cut out one-third of the remaining old wood, and the following year cut out the balance. If this technique is followed, your old lilac plants can become potential sources of ingredients for a homemade lilac potpourri recipe.

Evergreens can be shaped now. With a sharp knife or pruning shear cut off half of the new growth on each twig. This will force the growth of two buds where only one would have formed.

The time has come to erase any doubts you may hold on the subject of homemade lilac potpourri recipe. Click on the link to visit http://www.plant-care.com/dried-potpourri-recipes-and-preserving-fresh-cut-flowers.html.

Tags: Garden, Gardening, Gardening Articles, pest, pest control

Warning – Be Careful What You Spray For!

Some efficiency expert is always talking about "killing two birds with one stone." I'd like to dispatch a couple of rabbits with one rock. Right now there is bountiful food for them everywhere, but they insist on nibbling at the geraniums.

Last season our neighbor found a nest of baby rabbits. They were so "cute." That no one can deny. But the other evening I heard strong muttering about what all the pesky rabbits were doing. They talk about chickens coming home to roost, but this is a case of bunnies coming home to feed.

The grapes put out last year are going to have a small amount of fruit this fall. Had I been able to find time (always the perfect excuse) to get the trellis wire strung up last year when the plants were set, I think they would have done considerably better.

I tried to start some grapes several years ago. Maybe you can learn from my experience. In spraying for bind-weed (some call it wild sweet potato, wild morning glory, creeping Jenny, etc.) I found that grape leaves are VERY susceptible to weed killers, even when the spray doesn't touch them.

Last summer I chose a perfectly calm day to spray the lawn. We fixed up a long boom on the sprayer, and put plastic around it for a curtain. In spite of this the tomatoes and watermelons at some distance from the spraying curled up. So did my neighbor's squashes.

Our rainfall during the spring and early summer was reported as a bit above normal but after so many dry years it is almost impossible to visualize just what is "normal." The season seemed awfully wet to us.

One problem it revived (one we had nearly forgotten) was that of keeping the roses properly protected with spray or dust. It seemed that it washed off as fast as it was put on.

Another problem we noticed was that on some newly set out flowering shrubs and trees, as well as on our plum trees, the aphids and mealybugs have a special liking for the tender tips. Regular fruit tree spraying didn't seem to keep them in check completely. A few application of Neem oil did the trick in controlling mealybugs and aphids .

I picked a cool day last week to turn over the compost pile. In the process I put an end to several dozen grub worms which had chosen it for a home. My faith in compost always wavers when I see all the pests that like to live in it... but I still think the benefits out-weigh the disadvantages.

Tags: aphids, Garden, Gardening, Gardening Articles, mealybugs, pest control, Plants

Don’t Let Pest Control Take Control Of Your Family’s Budget In This Economy Crisis

Bugs, rodents, and other animal creatures are very valuable for maintaining natural balance out in nature. That's very good and, no doubt, if you are like most, you can greatly appreciate that. However, when these earthy things start to invade our homes and gardens, we are generally less than happy to receive them.

With an economy crisis unfolding around the world, some people may find that it's just not cost-effective to hire a professional extermination service on a regular basis. These people will be left to contend with nature on their own. Sounds like a daunting task; however, it's not as rough as some may think.

In fact, here are some home "remedies" for taking care of pest control woes in and around your home and garden. Most of these frugal recipes use items that are common staples in the majority of households around the world. Try them to protect your home against some of our "natural" home enemies:

Let cinnamon keep ants at bay. Buy for cheap a jar of cinnamon from your local discount retailer and watch it work wonders for your home. Ants do not like the taste nor the smell of cinnamon. So, all you have to do is sprinkle some around the door jamb to offset an ant invasion.

If you don't want to welcome deer in your garden, try mixing these two extremely inexpensive ingredients that you can buy for cheap just about anywhere, liquid dish soap and hot sauce! One tablespoon of the detergent mixed with some hot sauce, use as much as you want, put into a spray bottle and applied to your greenery will keep those dear deer at bay! Re-apply as needed after a heavy rain.

Get rid of those tiny aphids that nibble and destroy your garden. Simply mix canola oil with some dish soap and water. You only need one tablespoon of the canola oil, so you can just use what you have around the house. There is no need to go out looking to buy this stuff in large quantities. Put this mixture in a bottle, shake, and spray. Reuse an old cleanser bottle that you have cleaned out or buy for cheap a spray bottle at your local discount store. This mix actually kills these annoying pests without killing your garden.

Mice are nice when they are not bothering your home or garden. Once they enter your personal realm, then they become "the enemy". To make sure that you offset mice and other rodents make peppermint a part of your pest control plan. Plant it wherever you want rodents NOT to go. You can buy for cheap peppermint seeds to bring your plan to fruition. The added benefit is that you get peppermint, which can be used for making a fabulous tea.

Pest control service can have a hefty price tag. In an economy crisis like we are experiencing around the world, it's best to find alternative solutions which can help with saving, cost-cutting, and helping ends meet. These frugal recipes for pest control use can help you to enjoy your home and garden without all of those pesky pests!

Tags: cheap, coupons, economize, frugal tips, Garden, Gardening Articles, pest control, save money, savings, shopping, spend less

Eco-Friendly Pest Control Has Ancient Roots

Eco-friendly pest control is not new. In fact it is quite ancient. Early man fought insects even before agriculture. After the beginning of agriculture the fight turned into a war. Hundreds and thousands of years ago, there simply were no pesticides to fall back on. And the early farmers were seriously motivated. The failure of a single crop could bring the threat of starvation.

Early farmers were observant and quickly learned how nature handled pest control. They duplicated what they saw and were not afraid to experiment. Ancient writings of Rome, China, Sumaria and Egypt contain evidence of pest control techniques. Some techniques worked well and were passed on.

Pest control techniques used by early farmers included: Using other critters such as frogs, birds and even other bugs help control pests Using sanitation and rotating crops to help control pests Using traps, baits and even fire to burn crops after harvest Using pest resistant plants

Many cultures burned the remains of a crop after harvest to kill insects, larva and eggs as well as weed seeds. This pest control technique is mentioned by the ancient Chinese nearly 3000 years ago and by the Roman Virgil, 1000 years later. Even today some farmers still burn their crop residue although climate change concerns may change that.

Burning of fields after the harvest interrupts the lifecycle of pests and decreased the number of their offspring. Ancient cultures also observed that rotating crops was an effective pest control technique for preventing pests from getting a foothold in an area. Pythagoras in ancient Greece was credited for eliminating malaria from a town by disrupting the lifecycle of mosquitoes. Stagnant water was pumped out of a nearby swamp which reduced the spread of the disease.

The Chinese especially became adept at pest control using beneficial species. For example, 3200 years ago ancient Chinese texts note the use of predatory ants to protect citrus groves from caterpillars and wood boring beetles. Later on officials prohibited the removal of eggs and the hunting of both frogs and birds as these species consume vast numbers of insects. Praying mantis was released in gardens among the chrysanthemums to devour leaf-eating insects.

In Europe the invention of traps as physical pest control began with Dr. Bruckmann in the 16th century, who built the first fly trap. It was a simple wooden box with a spring loaded top designed to trap flies. The insects were lured into the box by sweet bait. He also created flea traps designed to be worn around the neck. They proved popular with the aristocracy at the time.

Eco-friendly pest control techniques are not new. They have been refined and proven over thousands of years. For the most part they were cheap, simple and safe. After decades of using chemical pesticides, the tide began turning back to more natural methods. These techniques are collectively known as Integrated Pest Management, and they are the future of pest control.

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