Posted by David W Lambert
If you are having a problem with deer eating your prize plants, you should try Liquid Fence, spray applied repellent to safely and effectively drive these critters away from your yard and garden.
Be sure to purchase the product in concentrate form, which will give you the best coverage for the least amount of money.
This product really needs to be re-applied every 3 to 4 weeks to effectively repel these critters, but be sure to test the time interval in your own yard to determine the best timing for you. You will have to adjust the intervals of application under a few distinctive circumstances though. If you utilize overhead irrigation or there have been heavy rains, you will need to shorten the time period by about a week or so. The key to being very successful with this product is to consistently make use of it to your plants all summer long.
For instance if you forget an application, or would be late by several days to a week, you will most often see the deer returning for a midnight snack.
Liquid Fence - How We Discovered It
We didn't realize it at the time, but when we built our home in 5 acres of woods, we placed it directly on an old deer trail. It was wonderful to see the deer all the time, but the dinner bell rang long and repeatedly. We genuinely had a passion for Hosta, being in the shaded setting of the woods, and unfortunately the deer loved them as much as we did.
We thought we had exhausted all the possibilities, all the formulas, sprays, deterrents etc., and we were almost ready to give up on ever being able to have Hostas again. The deer just came back with an even bigger appetite. Almost at the point of giving up, I happened obtain a product called Liquid Fence on the Internet. At first , it seemed to be rather pricey, but after reading their iron-clad 100% money back guarantee, we decided to give it a try.
Key to the Success - position to All Leaf Surfaces
The product was applied per instructions to both the top and underside of all foliage. The job was finished after treating 800 Hosta. After awaking the next morning deer were spotted, and expecting to see entire seas of Hosta mowed down to the ground, we naturally thought that they now had completely eaten everything.
To our amazement, there was not one Hosta plant eaten. In fact we only found one plant that had a bite out of it and we even found the leaf that was bitten off - the deer had spit it out!! Holy Cow, how could this be? We had finally found something that absolutely worked like magic.
OK I guess you already know what we like about this product. And like just about every natural product, there are a few things that aren't so good.
Our Dislikes of Liquid Fence
Like nearly any other liquid repellent, this stuff genuinely stinks. Also, be sure that you don't get this stuff on your clothes while spraying it. The best time to make use of it is on a very calm day, first thing in the morning. The smell was pretty bad! You find that the smell dissipates rather quickly. After just a couple of days of application, the smell will be nearly gone.
Another concern is that this product is that it is somewhat expensive, especially so if you have a large garden. With the large concentrate bottle we could apply it four times during the summer and treat approximately 800 very good-sided Hosta with each application.
In working out the math, this equates to about $25 per application or about $150 per year. But for those of us with big yards that isn't necessarily a budget buster.
You have to clean your sprayer out religiously. If the product is left in the sprayer it truly stinks to high heaven, and the nozzle will be very difficult to clean. Simply make it a habit that upon completion of a spraying job, immediately clean the tank, hose, and nozzle, and you will be in good shape.
You have to apply it regularly. Even going a few days too long will result in deer returning for a snack. We found that 3 weeks was about the top end you could expect from this product's effectiveness.
Where Can It Be Purchased?
I have found that the concentrate is available only through mail order or on the Internet. The premixed solution is commonly available in garden centers.
Before we end this, there are a few things you should examine in concert with a deer repellent. Search for plants that have natural deer resistance. It can be quite surprising how many of these deer resistant varieties there genuinely are. By reducing the number of plants that they will eat, will make your job a great deal easier to actually control them.
Will It Repel Other Animals?
Don't have deer problems, but there are other critters you wish to repel in your garden? There are a wide range of products that Liquid Fence handles for all kids of different pests. They carry products do repel Cats or Dogs, Rabbits, Moles and Snakes. Liquid Fence also handles a very nice garden sprayer optimized for their products. You will need to dedicate a special sprayer for your Liquid Fence products.
If you wish to learn more about Deer Repellent, visit our article Deer Repellent. Additional information about eco-friendly pest control options can be found at Best Deer Repellent Product.
Tags: deer repellent, garden pests, Gardening, Gardening Articles, liquid fence, organic pest control
Posted by David W Lambert
Concerns are often raised about white grubs in lawns and ways to handle them. The later part of summer and into early fall is the time white grub problems are most probable to show in lawns in the northern states. Although various lawns may be spared the damage, this insect can devastate your lawn in a short period of time.
Lawn Grubs - How Do You Know If You Have Them?
Since lawn grubs, more accurately called white grubs, feed on the root structure of your grass. Infected lawns will show browning and wilting in irregular shaped areas. Even though you may have brown spots in your turf, it does not inevitably mean you have lawn grubs.
A sure-fire way to find out if you have a grub problem is to inspect the root zone for the classic "C-Shaped" grubs. It is best to check marginal areas where the brown grass meets the healthy grass.
Pull back the turf in a couple of these areas. If you locate grubs in these areas, take a count of the grubs. If you have more than 10 to 12 lawn grubs per square foot, it will lead to lawn browning.
Also, you ought to know that there are other conditions that can lead to turf wilting and browning. Shady area turf is typically shallow rooted and can be lifted very easily. Grubs do not commonly appear in shade lawns.
Also, many lawns were easily pulled up in the early spring and grubs were blamed. Once grass dies, regardless of the cause, roots will rot away and the grass is very simple to tear out. Do not try to diagnose grub damage in the spring from the previous season's damage as this is very difficult to do, even if you have dead turf and minimal root structure.
Another way to determine if you have lawn grubs is if you have skunks or raccoons digging your turf up overnight looking for grubs, which is a food source for them. If you have a mole problem in addition to dead turf areas, it is probable you have a lawn grub problem, but this is not an absolute indication.
Why do lawn grubs affect some lawns in a neighborhood and not others?
Keep in mind the adult stage of the grub life cycle is a beetle, which can fly. So as you an see, if the beetles fly into your yard is is by means of random chance.
The preferred areas that the adult beetles lay their eggs is well-watered, full-sun turf areas. July is commonly the month that these eggs are laid. So if you have been watering your lawn during a dry spell and your neighbors have not, you are a probable target for the beetle.
Can You Predict If You Will Have Lawn Grubs?
It is complicated, and many factors influence the chances of grubs appearing in your lawn. A very distinct indication is by spotting Japanese beetles in your lawn during July.
Another indication is by spotting Masked Chafers, which are the adult of the annual white grub. They are frequently active around or shortly after sundown.
Additionally, if you notice Masked Chafers, a tan beetle and the adult of the annual white grub, active after or around sundown.
Starting in mid-August and continuing on through the month of September, keep an eye on your turf for browning and wilted turf. Also inspect the root zone of affected areas.
How Can You Prevent Damage From Lawn Grubs?
You have some options to consider. One option is to let your lawn go dormant during the month of July. Since the beetles are looking for well-watered lawns to lay their eggs, this will deter them. This of course has a downside of a brown lawn in the middle of summer.
Another option for you is to use a preemptive grub control substance. You ought to use this approach if there have been known infestations of lawn grubs in your lawn or your neighbors lawns.
What Is The Most Beneficial Way To Get Rid Of Lawn Grubs?
Probably the best preemptive measure is the application of an organic bacterial powder on your turf. While poisons will certainly do the job, you are introducing unhealthy circumstances to your family, pets and particularly to the local song bird population. One of the most beneficial treatments is Milky Spore and can control lawn grubs for up to 10 years if applied correctly.
How Can You Repair Your Lawn After Damage?
In order to bring life back to a grub infested turf, you ought to employ various lawn restoration techniques.
First of all, be sure to rake up all the dead debris.
Next as the temperatures begin to cool in the fall, be sure to thoroughly irrigate the damaged turf areas. This may cause some of the damaged root zones to recover.
If you encounter areas that don't recover or are totally bare or very thin, you ought to reseed these areas.
While the exact time you attempt restoration varies by means of you location, if you live in the colder sections of the country, Labor Day is a good target date.
To learn more about Lawn Grubs, visit our article Lawn Grubs. An additional Grub Control article you may be interested in may be Controlling Lawn Grubs.
Tags: garden pests, Gardening, Gardening Articles, lawn grub control, lawn grubs, mole control, organic pest control
Posted by David W Lambert
Mole and Grub Control with Milky Spore:
Ever hunt for the perfect product to no avail? If you are looking to control moles, Japanese Beetles and lawn grubs with one product, then look no further. Milky Spore is the product that will do everything for you.
No More Song Birds:
When I decided to build anew home on a 5 acre wooded lot, I never gave it a thought that moles could be a problem. After a couple of years the mole problem I was going to have became very obvious.
With such an immediate problem, I wished to cure this a rapidly as possible. So I made a quick trip to the garden superstore and purchased the best grub control poison that I could find. I won't mention the product name, but I can say the main active ingredient was Diazinon.
Did the mole problem disappear? Yes it did for that one year. The next thing I found was dead song birds all over the property, and everything got strangely silent. Holy Cow, what was happening??
After some investigation, I found in my ignorance that by poisoning the grubs, they crawled to the lawn surface and the birds ate the grubs, killing the birds. I couldn't have felt worse. One of the biggest lures of living in the woods was now gone.
I found a little known product called Milky Spore after considerable investigation. As I didn't want to repeat this awful mistake, I completed a considerable amount of exploration on this product.
The product checked out to be completely safe for birds, pets and humans, but was that too good to be true? After the Milky Spore arrived it was spread per the directions, and lasted a full 12 years. Amazing! I was convinced of the potential of organic pest control after that.
How Does This Amazing Product Work?
The main ingredient in the Milky Spore is a organically occurring bacteria that turns out to be deadly to the grubs. When they digest it, their digestive system is paralyzed, resulting in their death. As a result, the grubs crawl to the surface, die and the bacteria multiplies by the billions, rapidly spreading over your entire lawn. After about 6 to 8 weeks, not only the grubs, but the Japanese Beetles will be totally eliminated from the lawn.
How about the moles? They are not going to stick around. By killing the grubs, their food source was taken away.
Being that this stuff is completely organic, after application there are no health concerns for your family, pets or the birds. Everyone is safe and no poisons to contaminate the lawn, the water table, or your song birds.
How You Apply Milky Spore:
I feel that the Milky Spore that is in the concentrated powder form works the best. I feel it has a much longer lasting presence in the lawn than the granular type.
If the concentrate form is purchased, follow the application instructions very closely. Use the application spacing as a recommended maximum and do not skimp on material. It is also recommended that the specified application tube be used to apply the product to your lawn. You will find that it performs very well and is very low-priced.
Just fill the applicator and slam it into the ground at every 36 inches, or one large sized pace to locate a 36" x 36" grid of Milky Spore dots all over your lawn.
How Much Does it Cost?
At first gloss you will think Milky Spore is rather pricey. It runs about $90 to cover 10,000 square feet of lawn. The savings is in how long it lasts. This product will be one of the most frugal investments you can make in your landscape. The applicator will last for many uses and costs only about $8.00.
Well, it is not cheap. It calculates to be very close to $90.00 per 10,000 square feet of lawn coverage. The savings is in how long it lasts. This will be a very good investment in your mole control. The applicator runs about $8.00 and will last for many applications if kept in a dry location.
Where Can Milky Spore be Purchased?
My Rating of the Product?
Being simple to apply, a very low cost per year for the product and does exactly as advertised, I give it the highest rating of 10 stars. So give Milky Spore a try, it will perform very well for you and you will not be disappointed.
If you wish to learn more about using Milky Spore, visit our article Milky Spore. Another article addressing mole control, lawn grubs and beetles is Milky Spore for Mole Control.
Tags: garden pests, Gardening, Gardening Articles, lawn grub control, milky spore, mole control, organic pest control
Posted by Dr. Doug Asher
You may call them Crab Spiders but these guys are actually Gastrecantha carciforms and are also known as tiny orb spiders. This class of spiders or arachnid's can be found from Florida to North Carolina and west to California. This particular species belong to a pantropical genius from Europe.
This species of crab spider can be easily identified from any other species in Florida. The sizes of the spiders also differ among their sexes, with males being much smaller than females, and usually measuring 2-3 millimeters long. And the males are really slightly wider in width compared to the female. Females can measure 5-9 millimeters in length and 10-13 millimeters wide.
It has been described by scientists under so many names, that it would be too much to list them here. Because of its movements and appearance, most Florida residents call it a "crab spider". Please do not mistake it as part of the Thomisidoe family, also called "Crab Spiders".
The male and female spiders have slightly different colors, having a black carapace, legs and venter, with some white spots on the underside of the abdomen. Florida specimens have white with black spotted dorsum on their abdomen. Other specimens from other areas may have a yellow abdominal dorsum, instead of the white, or they can have black instead of red. They also could be almost entirely black on their dorsal and ventral areas. The male may also have four or five small humps instead of abdominal spikes like the female has.
Florida specimens have white with black spotted dorsum on their abdomen. Other specimens from other areas of the United States may have a yellow abdominal dorsum, instead of the white, or they can have black instead of red. They also could be almost entirely black on their dorsal and ventral areas. The male may also have four or five small humps instead of abdominal spikes like the female has.
Eggs typically hatch 11-13 days after they are laid and take an additional 7-10 days to become "crab" spiders. After all that the "crab" spiders will take another 2-5 weeks to be able to make some very tiny, inconspicuous orb webs. The "crab" spiders will start growing larger around late summer and early fall. The typical lunch for these types of spiders are whiteflies, flies, moths, and beetles caught in their webs. These spiders are beneficial to humans by eating insect in orchards, farms and in gardens. Their bite is also are not harmful to humans.
Shed your fear of spiders
categories: spiders,organic control,pesticide control,professional,florida,Tiny Orb Spider,Crab Spider,united states,Spiders,Proffesional Pest Control,Organic Pest Control,Home and Garden,Gardening,Animals
Tags: animals, Crab Spider, Florida, Gardening, Gardening Articles, home and garden, organic control, organic pest control, pesticide control, professional, Proffesional Pest Control, spiders, Tiny Orb Spider, United States
Posted by Bryant Cook
How to improve the efficiency of the pest control. You've got some bugs in your garden - what crop you've gotten has insect damage. Or some birds that won't leave your tomato plants alone. Or deer that have discovered how sweet your roses taste. What can you do?
What The Masses Do For Pest Control
"Organic" is a word that the vast majority of people doesn't think about much - though they should. Instead, they spray chemicals on their gardens to kill the aphids, whitefly, and other "nasty" bugs - not knowing they're also killing the good bugs (like praying mantis, and ladybugs, etc.) - which only makes the cycle worse.
Their fruits and vegetables are tainted with the chemicals, and must be thoroughly washed before they can eat it or sell it. No more eating a tangerine or a cherry tomato while they're out harvesting - they miss out on that delicious experience. There's nothing fresher than that!
They also cannot claim to be an "organic" garden. While it must not seem like much to those who don't want the certification, many of us do want to be known as "organic" and "chemical-free".
Using chemicals is also often less effective than using a more natural method. The natural world has been effectively controlling pests organically for many thousands of years - them we come along and think we can do it better? I think not! While the natural world may need a bit of help from us humans, that doesn't mean polluting their natural world with chemicals - instead, use organic pest control in your garden to help the natural world along. Pull weeds instead of spraying them, and mulch your plants to avoid getting weeds in the first place. Spray off plants with white fly with a strong blast of water from a hose - and you might be able to totally control the white fly naturally. There are many organic methods for pest control.
What The Rest Of Us Do For Pest Control
"Organic" isn't just a word to the rest of us. We love by the maxim that "organic is best for us and our planet." And so, we continually look for ways to control the pests - whether animal or plant - in our gardens.
We learn about the uses of beneficial bugs - the ladybugs and butterflies and praying mantises. We encourage them in whatever ways we can - growing their favorite flowers, or using natural products with pheromones to attract them to our feeding ground.
We use barrier methods - like fences (sorry, deer, eat outside the garden) or nets (or red Christmas balls in a garden with unripe tomatoes so the birds will learn that those red things aren't edible - and they'll leave the ripening fruit alone) or Liquidambar pods (on the ground around our plants that we want to protect from snails with soft underbellies).
We focus on sprays that aren't harsh chemicals - using white vinegar to kill slugs within a few inches of where they are sprayed, and water from the hose to kill off white fly from our hibiscus.
When the focus is on finding organic methods of pest control, we can do it. You can, too.
The site of pest control is begin to involve in the subjects of carpet cleaner and carpet cleaning.
Tags: organic pest control
Posted by William Black
As a gardener, the pest control is a big prooblem for you to deal with whether you grow fruits and vegetables or flowers - or some combination - you can't have pests ruining your garden. Pests can eat your crop, suck the juices of the plant, stunt the growth, and even kill the plants you've spent time growing.
What can you do? You can go the hard line, chemical route, where you spray chemicals on your plants and pretend there are no real negative effects. But you and I both know there has to be a better way - and there is. You can have pest control for your plants that is truly organic. Whether your plants with pests are outside or indoors, organic pest control is worth using.
Bugs, Bugs, Everywhere?
If your plants are plagued with insects that want to feed off them and ruin them, you have to find an organic pest control. For your plants, chemicals are a bad idea. For one thing, remember that fruits or vegetables that might have been sprayed with chemicals must be washed thoroughly before you can eat them. And while most of us wash our fruits and vegetable anyway, is there anything better than popping a right-off-the-vine cherry tomato into your mouth as you garden? Or tasting a tangerine while you harvest a bucketful to take indoors? No more of this if you use chemicals to get rid of insect varmints.
So what can you do? First, let the good bugs get rid of the bad bugs. Got aphids on your roses, fruit trees, or vegetables? They suck up the nutrients from plants and are very destructive. Most of their natural predators have succumbed to the common usage of pesticides. Those who survive become resistant to pesticides. Adult and larvae ladybugs are known to eat 50 aphids a day. You can attract ladybugs to your garden - one way is to use a natural product that has pheromones that attract beneficial insects (including ladybugs). You can also purchase ladybugs over the internet or at some home and garden stores.
Weeds Are Pests, Too!
For weeds, many people automatically turn to the chemical weed killers. This isn't a good idea. For one thing, just like with antibiotics, the continual use of chemicals to kill off pests can result in "superbugs" or "superweeds" that are chemical resistant.
What can be done? Try natural methods of organic pest control for your plants! One such method is to pour boiling hot water onto weeds that are growing up in the cracks of a driveway or sidewalk. This will usually kill them (a second application may be necessary).
Pesty Animals?
As for animals that are pests, protecting your plants with organic pest control for animals is usually a matter of a barrier method. Most of us aren't interested in killing off every animal that bothers our garden - though we might be tempted!
Instead, try using a fence or plastic protection. Individual animals can be deterred in animal specific ways, all. For example, one type of organic pest control for your plants from deer is to sprinkle human hair clippings around in the garden. They will not consider your garden a safe place if they smell human.
Birds can be tricked. Hanging pie tins in fruit trees or garden plants to catch the sunlight can work. So can hanging red Christmas balls within the tomato plants while the tomatoes are still green. The birds will try to peck the red balls. When they learn they aren't edible, they'll leave the later ripening fruit alone!
Who wants to get the top carpet cleaner to help your pest control and carpet cleaning can find the best deal on the site.
categories: Pest Control,Insect Control
Tags: organic pest control
