Protecting The Root Systems
Sowing annuals and wild flowers - One way to enjoy more California wild flowers - and it doesn't matter whether you live in Oregon, Washington, Montana or any other place in the West - is to broadcast seeds of these beautiful wildlings. Seeds can be sown in the open ground now for bloom along in March and April.
The technique of broadcasting seeds of spring-blooming annuals is not limited to wild flowers alone, however. Bachelors-buttons, candytuft, clarkias, godetias, larkspurs, linaria, mignonette, nemesia and Virginian stocks grow easily when handled in this fashion.
Protecting subtropicals from frost - If you grow young subtropicals and live in the borderline areas of the West keep an eye on the thermometer and keep an ear cocked to nightly frost warnings on the radio. Probably the surest protection is to cover tender plants in tent fashion with burlap attached to four stakes arranged around the plants.
If it is cold where you live, a thick mulch of sphagnum peat can be used to protect pelargoniums, hibiscus, bougainvillea and other tender subtropicals. Even though the tops may be frozen with heavy frosts, the protected root systems will escape serious damage and be able to pop out with new growth in the spring.
Planting camellias - The scores of camellia plantings up and down the Coast really come to life this month.
Some varieties started blooming in October; now the pace is quickening and scores of fine varieties are giving good color outdoors.
Camellia enthusiasts are the first to remind you that by planting a proper sequence of varieties it is possible to enjoy bloom continuously for about six months. Check with your local nurseryman for the best varieties for your neighborhood.
Watering - In many parts of the West there will probably be enough rainy weather for the garden; you'll be able to roll up the hose for the year. But in the drier sections of the West, particularly in Arizona and Southern California, it will be necessary to-continue watering all shrubs and hardy trees until the heavy rains become more frequent or you use a self-watering pots.
The exceptions are subtropicals and other tender plants which should have been hardened off a month or so ago so that they'd be in better condition to go through frosty weather.
Berried shrubs - Though nurseries are beginning to receive winter shipments of trees and shrubs, not until late December and January will they really get going. However, there's lots of emphasis right now on berried shrubs which can be seen in full color at the well-stocked nurseries and garden supply centers.
Lifting tuberous begonias - After the tops are completely dead, lift begonias with a little soil around the roots and let them dry gradually. When thoroughly dried, carefully wash the remaining soil off the tubers, dry thoroughly and store in shallow flats for the winter. It will pay you to apply a protective coating of insecticide-fungicide dust to the tubers before storing them until next season.
Chrysanthemums - Soon the late-blooming chrysanthemums will have finished their bright parade; that will be the signal for cutting back all those clumps which have finished blooming. But be sure to tag the plants now while you still remember their colors. Mulch around the clumps and dust or spray them to catch earwigs, ants and any other pests that may be hiding there.
Planning for fruit trees and berries - Bare-root trees will not be available in most areas for another six to eight weeks. However, it's time now to work out a plan for using them to best advantage in the garden. The same is true of strawberries and also members of the cane-berry tribe.
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